Sunday, July 31, 2016

Don't Pigeon Hole Me!

The kids are here for this one week, but Fred's still working Monday through Thursday, so we'll entertain ourselves with day trips. On the agenda today is Orvieto, a hill town one hour's drive north. We've been several times, but we've never been to the underground tunnel tour. The next day will be Montefiascone, a closer town where we love a particular caffé and where we plan to camp out with our laptops. I'll be working and they'll do whatever. We drink cappuccino and soak in the Italian culture all around us. This bar has their version of MTV playing.

Orvieto. First stop was lunch. We drove the way I thought we always drive, following signs to the duomo and ending up getting dumped right onto the main piazza at the top of the town. Parking on the right. Best lot in the town. But we messed up and ended up a few blocks away. It didn't stop us from finding our favorite restaurant within ten minutes. Here we are sharing a half liter of vino bianco with our lunches. This is the first summer the boys have imbibed a bit. With us, that is.




This is the pretty amazing duomo of Orvieto. Like a wedding cake.





After lunch we went over to the underground tour. It was pretty cool. I guess this is the only shot I got. It's of the pigeon coop cave. They raised pigeons underground (those are their little individual holes—hence the term pigeon hole!) so if the city were to be under siege they would have food.



After this we went back to Viterbo to get ready for dinner, which was the Tuesday night artist talk and buffet dinner at the school. On the way, I got this shot of Monastero, the two-plate pizza place, and another of Fred, Henry and Owen.





The next day, Montefiascone, was a much less ordinary day—ironic, since Orvieto is the tourist-attracting town. NOT Montefiascone. But this is often the case with us.

Turns out it was a festival day here—La Festa di Santa Margherita. We made a note of this so we can come back next year at night and have dinner. We saw mostly preparations.

Tables set up in the lot where I usually park.





















A visit to Montefiascone always involves a walk to the top, as does every visit to a hilltop town, for that matter—unless we can drive to it. This top is particularly cool because the view is of one of the area's biggest lakes—a volcanic lake called Bolsena. This lake represents the crater created by an old volcano. The sand around it on its beaches is black.



When we got to the top we looked down at what these people were looking at. A soapbox derby race! We had never come across one of these. Tires lined one side of the street, hay bales the other. Three cars at a time (all manned by teenagers, mostly boys, but at least one girl) took turns racing down the stretch of road, while all the townspeople cheered them on.












A priest and a couple of nuns were among the crowd.



We then walked a tiny bit further to the park at the very top on the other side.





Pokemon Go is everywhere!









On the way home, I FINALLY pulled over to take a picture of one of the most amazing things ever.

This pole with the vegetation at the top looks almost like some kind of flowery palm tree. It is, in fact, a pole, maybe a light pole, with a plant growing at the top. It has grown bigger and bigger every year. Finally, I got up close and knocked on the pole. It seems to be hollow. I've seen this type of plant before and it is vine-like. So my theory is it found its way inside the pole, worked its way to the top, to the light, and now flourishes there!




At home, we got ready for dinner at Il Giardino del Papero (the Garden of the Duck), our all-time favorite spot in Viterbo. Along the way, we ran into Fred's TA, Karen Sung and her boyfriend Sam, dining at Al Vecchio Orologio (the Old Clock).






And at The Duck, we ran into this couple on a date—Erin, our writing teacher and her husband Frank.






We always start with this fried vegetable thing that's like tempura. Insanely good.


And I often get this—steak under arugula and tomatoes.




Yo, Hadrian!

Today was a road trip to Tivoli, Italy, home to Villa Adriana (known to us as Hadrian's Villa) and Villa d'Este, one of the country's most notable gardens. I just looked at my iPhone Heart app and see that I took over 16,000 steps that day. I recently discovered that this heart thing on my phone monitors my steps as long as I have the phone with me. I don't have to set it up to do so. Now it's a daily obsession. Every day, I walk more than anyone else in my family even if we're together the whole day. That's because my legs are shorter and I have to take more steps :) Kind of amusing in a sad way!

So, lots of walking around the ruins that are Hadrian's Villa today. The place was built in the second and third decades of the 2nd century AD as a retreat from Rome for then Emperor Hadrian.
































Turtles and huge fish live in these two pools on the grounds.














Next stop, Villa d'Este. Having spent my junior year of college in Copenhagen, I think of Tivoli Gardens as this charming amusement park in the center of Copenhagen:



Alas, this Tivoli was not the first Tivoli; it was named after Jardin de Tivoli in Paris, which was named after the original gardens of Tivoli in Italy.  So, next stop, Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy—a 16th century villa near Rome, famous for its terraced hillside Italian Renaissance garden and especially for its profusion of fountains. This is the most amazing thing: 51 fountains, 398 spouts, 364 water jets, 64 waterfalls, and 220 basins, fed by a half mile of canals, channels and cascades, and all working entirely by the force of gravity, without pumps. This last part—NO PUMPS. Some of these fountains sprayed as high as a three story building. Crazy!

Speaking of fountains -- it is now 2021 and I'm revisiting this post. For years, I was obsessed with trying to figure out a way to have a fountain (the sound of running water is so soothing!) in my own patio outside of Boston. Sadly, I could never figure out a way to do so tastefully and/or affordably. Recently this site was brought to my attention --- some great ideas for DIY fountains!  https://happydiyhome.com/garden-fountains/

















Dinner this night was back in the 'hood at one of our old favorites—Il Monastero, home of the two-plate pizza. It's not all that filling because the crust is sooooo thin. Mine's half zucchini and half arugula, tomato and mozzarella.



A very cool penthouse apartment seen on our walk home from dinner. Maybe that'll be our apartment next year! ;)








Saturday, July 30, 2016

The Honeymoon is Over

It’s mid-July at this point in my blog, and our second honeymoon period is over as the boys joined us on July 23. They’re both in college now and need to work, so this is their last hurrah. One week in Viterbo with us, and a week in Manchester, England, where Fred is doing an Urban Sketchers workshop. 

See UrbanSketchers.org to learn what this is all about.

I left Viterbo early to make sure I got to the airport without any anxiety. You never know what might happen. Credit cards get stuck in toll booths, roads can be blocked, tractors might slow you way down, etc. But I didn't get tripped up on the way to Fiumicino until I was in the airport parking lot. I mistakenly got into a line to park in a lot for people with monthly passes. The gate closed in front of me AND behind me…. locking me in. Me, with no monthly pass or ticket or anything. I’ve been through this before and it always works out. Even with people lined up behind me. They’re used to backing up because often the machine is just broken. I pressed the help button, told her I had no ticket, and she said the gate behind me would open and I should back out… So, back out I did, all the way to the street and out again to find normal parking. 

From here it was very smooth sailing again. I waited for them to come out of the gate, snapped their photo when they did, pissed off Owen when I did that. Nice start. And off we went, back to Viterbo. Take ten.


After they unpacked, lazed around, napped and showered, we went to dinner at a new-for-us family-owned place around the corner.  As we left our apartment, the old lady across the street was looking out her balcony at us (per usual), so we told her our boys are here now. She was pleased for us.

Dinner was a very sweet experience. The son was our waiter, the father our host, and the mother the cook, we think. We never saw her, but the father came around smiling and chatting with people, and brought us biscotti and homemade dessert wine after our meal. The dessert wine was a ciliegia (cherry) liqueur which the host explained to us by bringing a bowl of soaking cherries to our table. They were delicious, too!

I ordered Chicken Viterbo-style, having no idea what that meant. Apparently, it's chicken and olives. They must've been surprised when I left most of the olives, but I'd just eaten a bowlful before dinner!  


The next morning we got up and out to join our Italian family friends the Basiles, next to whom we lived the very first year we came to Viterbo. We’ve gotten together every year since, at different houses among the extended family in and around Viterbo. One granddaughter Alessia spent Easter week with us as she was going to high school in Kentucky for the year! They are a lovely, boisterous, teasing, big family. It’s always a hoot to get together. 


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After this huge coffee gathering, they invited us for pizza on Friday, our last night. Stay tuned for those pics.